If replacing an existing pump, it is tempting to just install the same size as the original. For this to work it depends on the original being correct in the first place. As such it is therefore worth going through the correct sizing procedure anyway.

There are two main factors that need to be measured, “flow rate” and “head”.

The flow rate is the amount of water moved in a given time, usually expressed in gallons per minute. To work out your required flow rate you first need to work out your pool volume. For these formulae, take the measurements in feet. To find the average depth of your pool, take an average of the deepest and shallowest points.

Pool Volumes.

Rectangular Pool : Length x Width x Average Depth x 6.25 = Gallons
Round Pool : Radius x Radius x Average Depth x 20 = Gallons
Shaped or Oval Pools : Avg Width x Avg Length x Avg Depth x 6.25 = Gallons

When you have worked out the pool volume, set a turnover time. Ideally this will be about every 6 hours, but can vary according to bather load. To work out the flow rate, divide the volume by the turnover in hours. This figure must then be divided by 60 to get gallons per minute.

Having worked out the flow rate that we need, we then have to look at the head loss, which is a measure of the resistance, for example friction in pipe work, that the water will encounter on its journey around the circulation system. This is an extremely difficult thing to establish accurately. There are simply too many unknowns and too many variables. For example, to be 100% accurate you would need to know exactly how many feet of pipe you have, exactly how many joints, where they are, who manufactured them, what they are made of, etc,etc. In practice it is only feasible to take a best guess. For most domestic pools, it is accepted that the average figure for “head” is 10 metres or 33 feet. This will usually be reasonably accurate for most pools where the pump is situated no more than 30 feet from the pool, and on the same level. Use this as a starting point and adjust upwards if your installation is further away, has lots of bends, or is at a lower level.

Having established the flow and best guess head, consult the pump curve chart provided by your pump supplier. On the vertical axis the scale is measured in “Feet Head” or “Metres Head”, whilst the horizontal scale is “Flow Rate”. At the point where your two readings cross, go to the next pump curve up. That is then the pump you require.

Solar covers will help to heat the water during the day, and prevent heat loss at night, whilst also keeping dirt and debris out of the pool.

Winter debris covers help to protect your pool from the Winter elements, making it quicker and easier to re-open your pool in the Spring.

Click here to see the full article on Intex Pools and Covers.

According to new research published by Clydesdale and Yorkshire Banks, more than half of all kids in the UK are hoping to have a pool in their garden when they grow up.

59% said they aspire to pool ownership
19% plan to own their own home by the time they are 25
33% expect their future homes to cost them between £500,000 and £1 million

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The Barcelona Piscina Exhibition, Europes leading expo for Swimming Pool Equipment, was the chosen venue for the launch, to much interest, of Plastipacks new GeobBubble™.

Plastipack set out 5 years ago to develop a bubble that rectifies all of the weaknesses that were inherent in traditional pool bubble. The result of this research and development, in conjunction with both the University of Brighton and London Metropolitan University, is GeoBubble™. The new bubble is up 50% thicker at the weakest points of the old bubble, and the lifespan is expected to be up to 25% longer

After an extensive test period, the material will be available in early 2012, as Sol+Guard, EnergyGuard, and exclusively to PoolWarehouse: Platinum+

See our solar covers page for more details

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We recommend that the sand in your filter is changed every five years. This is a bit of a messy, unpleasant task, but well worth doing as a matter of routine.

Whilst filters will carry on working for a lot longer than five years, their efficiency will decrease all the time.

When new, filter sand has been ground to a size of between 0.3 to 0.5mm and each grain is very rough. It is the roughness of the sand that makes it efficient at filtering because the dirt particles get caught on the rough edges. However, over a long period of time this roughness becomes smoothed out. The more smooth the sand the less efficient the filter.  Consequently, the system has to run more frequently to only maybe achieve the same result as when new. In addition, the chemical costs may increase as you will have to use more chlorine.

Also, as the sand becomes worn it compacts more, trapping dirt deep within the sand and making it more and more difficult to remove by backwashing.  After five years it is unlikely that backwashing will clean it completely.

Whichever type of filter you have the first thing to do is stop the pump running and drain the filter of water by opening the drain plug at the bottom.

If your filter has a top mounted multiport valve, then it is necessary to remove this in order to get to the sand. Usually these just unscrew from the body of the filter, but it needs to be disconnected from the adjoining pipework before you can unscrew it. If the pipework has unions in place then this is easily done. If not, then the pipe needs to be cut cleanly and squarely. When re assembling the pipework it is worth incorporating unions to prevent the same problem in the future. Once you can see the sand, carefully remove it using a small trowel. Towards the bottom of the tank are several plastic “spokes” called laterals that radiate out from the centre of the filter. Be careful to avoid damaging these as you dig out the sand.

If your filter has a side mounted multi port valve, then there will be a lid on the top of the filter body which unscrews to expose the sand. Remove sand as above.

Once all the sand has been removed, flush out with clean water.
Check the laterals for damage and replace if necessary.
A damaged lateral could leak sand back into the pool.

Finally, replace with new sand, and re-assemble lids, multiport valves and pipework.

Rather than replacing with traditional sand, it may be worth considering the modern alternative which is glass media. Whilst this is initially more expensive, it gives a higher performance than sand and will last much longer than sand, at least ten years.

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Follow our eight point guide to help you
close down your pool this Autumn and
be ready for a quick and easy re-opening
in the Spring.

Pool Winterization Guide

1. Remove solar cover to protect from frost and ice.Wash off thoroughly, fold or roll, and store in a clean, dry place.
2. Remove leaves and debris, thoroughly brush and clean sides and floor of the pool, and vacuum all over.
3. Adjust the pH to between 7.2 and 7.6 and dose using Chlorine Shock Granules.
4. Add Wintering Algicide to maintain the water through the close down period.
5. Backwash filter.
6. Drop the water level to just below the level of the skimmer and drain all the pipework lines as much as possible.
   Drain the equipment, and if possible, store the pump in a dry environment.
7. Float some buoyant material (i.e.some part filled plastic bottles) in the water to allow expansion of ice therefore preventing damage.
8. Remove and store all equipment such as ladders, diving boards, and skimmer baskets before lastly fitting the winter cover.

For a more in depth guide please click here  to see our full Pool Close Down Guide

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